- Words by Joanne Peters Photography by Lia Crowe
A menu that travels from ocean depths to open pastures, natural light pouring through floor-to-high-ceiling windows, glam forest-green and matte-gold accents, and all kinds of plants乌鸦传媒攖all, hanging, climbing, and lush. Across from Canada Place is one of the most exciting restaurants to open in Vancouver this year.
Even if you don乌鸦传媒檛 know the Glowbal Restaurant Group by name, chances are you乌鸦传媒檝e dined at one of its hot spots: Glowbal, Trattoria, Coast, Black+Blue, or Italian Kitchen, to name a few. Now, the group founded by Egyptian-born restaurateur Emad Yacoub is adding to its portfolio, and it乌鸦传媒檚 the jewel in the crown.
The restaurant takes its name from Sean Riley, Emad乌鸦传媒檚 very first employee and executive chef, who used to work for him in Toronto and who rode his motorcycle across the country to help him open Glowbal over two decades ago. He remains an integral part of the company, where Top Chef Canada Season 7 competitor Dennis Peckham is GRG corporate chef.
Occupying and expanding the former home of Tourism Vancouver right near the cruise ship terminal, the 240-seat room, with a wine wall and bar facing the water, marries Coast乌鸦传媒檚 focus on fresh fish and seafood from eastern and western waters (think everything from PEI pink moon oysters and Atlantic lobster to Haida Gwaii halibut and Qualicum Bay scallops) with Black+Blue乌鸦传媒檚 expertise in Canadian and US prime beef.
Heading the kitchen is executive chef J茅r么me Soubeyrand. Born and raised in Lyon, France, he brings years of experience in some of Europe乌鸦传媒檚 best restaurants, eight of them Michelin-starred, to Vancouver, having previously held roles here at both Coast and Black & Blue.
He has worked alongside culinary authorities such as Paul Bocuse (who founded one of the world乌鸦传媒檚 most rigorous international cooking competitions) and Daniel Boulud (a fellow Lyonnais native who has dining establishments in New York City, Dubai and beyond). Also among his colleagues is another Michelin-ranked chef, Jo毛l Robuchon, who is credited for creating the best mashed potatoes in the world乌鸦传媒攁nd at Riley乌鸦传媒檚 you can taste J茅r么me乌鸦传媒檚 take on the famous dish. Ask him how much butter is in it. Or better yet, don乌鸦传媒檛.
While Riley乌鸦传媒檚 isn乌鸦传媒檛 a French restaurant, there乌鸦传媒檚 evidence of J茅r么me乌鸦传媒檚 classical training and technique all across the menu. Consider the shaved foie gras and red-wine jus that accompany steak and frites, the pillowy-soft indulgence of house-baked brioche (with garlic, Gruy猫re, whipped butter, smoked Maldon salt and lobster oil), the velvety tarragon-infused B茅arnaise sauce as an option to go with char-grilled prime cuts; and lobster Thermidor, the toothsome meat cooked in a decadent wine sauce before being stuffed back into the shell and browned. Then there is J茅r么me乌鸦传媒檚 coq au vin. The elevated comfort dish of red-wine-braised chicken pieces with glistening pearl onions, densely flavourful forest mushrooms and thick strips of cured pork belly is especially close to the chef乌鸦传媒檚 heart.
乌鸦传媒淚 started cooking with my mother every Sunday for the family at a young age, which kickstarted my love for food,乌鸦传媒� J茅r么me says. 乌鸦传媒淭he coq au vin reminds me of home and the meals that my mom would cook for my father. Where I grew up near Lyon there were a number of wineries, so coq au vin was a staple in our household.乌鸦传媒�
Other menu items that J茅r么me is especially excited about are oysters Rockefeller (the mollusks baked with buttered spinach and topped with a rock-crab B茅arnaise sauce) and Riley乌鸦传媒檚 succulent, chilled seafood towers. The latter come in three variations (grand, deluxe and king), with delicacies like halibut ceviche, marinated mussels and clams, freshly shucked oysters and snow-crab legs.
乌鸦传媒淢y overall vision for Riley乌鸦传媒檚 has everything to do with exceeding our guests乌鸦传媒� exceptions from the time they walk in the door to the time they leave,乌鸦传媒� J茅r么me says. 乌鸦传媒淚 want them to think of Riley乌鸦传媒檚 every time they travel to our city. I want them to feel they need to see us if they have a milestone to celebrate in their lives or if they乌鸦传媒檙e trying to impress their friends or coworkers. My goal is to have our customers planning their next visit before they乌鸦传媒檝e even had dessert.乌鸦传媒�
While the chef sources local and seasonal ingredients as much as possible, he concedes that there are exceptions: 乌鸦传媒淗ow can you turn down an incredible piece of Wagyu beef?乌鸦传媒� (Try the Wagyu carpaccio bedecked with smoked tomato jam, onion rings, Parmigiano Reggiano and served with chimichurri toast.)
There乌鸦传媒檚 another part of Riley乌鸦传媒檚 story that makes it unlike anything else in the city, and that is its wine program. Featuring one of the city乌鸦传媒檚 largest selections of wines available by the glass, the restaurant has also introduced a new concept here: every single bottle (whether it乌鸦传媒檚 Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris or Ch芒teau Lafite Rothschild 2010 Pauillac) is listed at wine-store cost plus a $40 to $50 corkage fee, giving people access to some of the world乌鸦传媒檚 best vintages at prices unheard of in the city乌鸦传媒檚 dining scene.
乌鸦传媒淚t will make it the most aggressive wine pricing for white-tablecloth service that Vancouver has ever seen,乌鸦传媒� J茅r么me says.
Cocktails are another draw. Riley & The Beast is a signature concoction: floral and foamy with Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla gin, St. Germain, rose water and honey lemon, it乌鸦传媒檚 garnished with a ruby-red wafer of dehydrated raspberry and a diminutive Persian rosebud. Cucumber Pivot, a refreshing if potent mix of Ketel One Cucumber Mint vodka, Aperol honey, sparkling wine and lemon, is Instagrammable with a sprig of thyme hugging the tall glass and attached with the world乌鸦传媒檚 teeniest clothing pin.
At press time, Riley乌鸦传媒檚 had just launched, offering dinner service (and live music nightly) and happy hour, with lunch and brunch on the horizon. As for what the future holds, who knows? Only the sea, forests, farms and imaginations are the limit.
乌鸦传媒淲e乌鸦传媒檙e going to keep pushing forward and evolving,乌鸦传媒� J茅r么me says. 乌鸦传媒淲hat I love most about my work is the adrenaline of service, the anticipation of a busy night, and seeing happy customers enjoying my team乌鸦传媒檚 hard work.乌鸦传媒�
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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