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Indigenous food sovereignty movement reclaiming wellness, sense of identity

Indigenous health dietitian says goal is to restore decision making power through food supply
26670605_web1_170707-BPD-M-Salmon-BBQ
A traditional salmon barbecue on Newcastle Island near Nanaimo. Black Press File Photo

Food is about more than what people eat.

For Indigenous Peoples on Vancouver Island, food affects physical, emotional and mental health, as well as Indigenous identity. However, decisions about food systems are often out of their hands. In an era of truth and reconciliation, fixes for these broken links can have a deep effect on peoplesѻý lives.

Island Health Indigenous Health Dietitian Jessie Newman says that food sovereignty is ѻýabout Nations reclaiming decision making power within the food system.ѻý

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ѻýI make sure that Iѻým having conversations with people in leadership, with knowledge keepers, with Elders. Any time decisions are made we need to have Indigenous Peoples at the table,ѻý she said. ѻýEvery Nation has different obstacles and challenges and finding those out is important.ѻý

Newman is Haida, Heiltsuk, and Kwakwakaѻýwakw. She knows how traditional foods can link to ancestors, heal, and help rekindle the sense of identity that many Indigenous people struggle with.

ѻýThe greatest benefit is that they really connect us to our ancestors and loved ones who have passed,ѻý she said. ѻýItѻýs quite emotional, especially for me. Seafoods really give me that feeling of a connection to my father who has passed, and my uncles and my grandfather. All of those memories that I have around those foods are really special.ѻý

However, thanks to the residential school system, many of those links are broken.

ѻýIf you go back to residential school and that disconnect from culture, a lot of people donѻýt have the knowledge of how to harvest our foods,ѻý she said. ѻýThe lack of knowledge around cultural practices is one of the biggest issues within our communities.

ѻýThat really speaks to identity as well. A lot of Indigenous people really struggle with a loss of identity or a lack of identity due to that disconnect from culture brought about through residential schoolѻý When youѻýre eating these kinds of foods, it gives me the sense of ѻýthis is who I am and this is what Iѻým meant to be eatingѻýѻý Our foods are so powerful.ѻý

ѻýA lot of Indigenous people, theyѻýve been through so much trauma. Their mental health might not be the best,ѻý she said. ѻýIf I can create situations where our People have greater access to their foods, then I am doing something positive that is going to have an impact.

Food sovereignty has increased throughout the region, but there is no one-size-fits-all solution. Every community has a different situation and different needs. The Kwakwakaѻýwakw communities are displaced from their traditional territories, making access to traditional foods difficult.

ѻýThe fact that none of these nations are actually located on their traditional territories where they would be harvesting these foods is probably the biggest barrier,ѻý Newman said.

ѻýAnother big barrier is that a lot of Nations might not have the money to focus on this. The way that funds are dispersed into communities are like ѻýyou need to spend this money on this, you need to spend this money on that.ѻý Some Nations find or redistribute funding to hire knowledge keepers to do work around food sovereignty and food security,ѻý she said.

ѻýNot every Nation does this or has the capacity to do it, but there are some Nations in the northern area like in TsaѻýXana where theyѻýve actually taken the initiative through funding from our Indigenous Health program and hired somebody. They really honoured the knowledge of the local food champions to do the work. If every community has somebody doing that, then we would be much better off.

When it comes down to it, Newman says her goal is for Indigenous Peoples to have access and control over their food systems.

ѻýThere are so many reasons itѻýs not happening. Some of it is climate change, some of it is environmental. What would really work is if our government gave us access to our land back and gave us control over our land, how itѻýs managed and how the resources are managed,ѻý she said.

ѻýWeѻýd have access to our traditional territories and be able to harvest our foods whenever we want, and manage it in a way that will be sustainableѻý thatѻýs the ultimate goal.ѻý

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marc.kitteringham@campbellrivermirror.com

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Marc Kitteringham

About the Author: Marc Kitteringham

I joined Black press in early 2020, writing about the environment, housing, local government and more.
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